Wow... its gone....its REALLY GONE!!!!
first day ive noticed no spots on any fish. Guess what worked for me?
Aquari-sol? no. Rid Ich+? no. Para-guard? no.
Good old Salt and heat! Salt to the tune of near 2.2-2.5 teaspoons per gallon, built up over 36 hours incrimentally, absolute darkness and sustained 86F.
Its a bit of a mixed victory because i could tell i had to push the clown to near deaths doorstep to kill the Ich, but i just did a water change to lower the salinity, and he is looking chipper today. Eating like a maniac.
Now my appartment is small. And i have no room/funds to operate a Qtank. How doi go about (in a weeks time or so, ensuring no more ich) adding a new friend for Pontius? And what is the likelihood of re-infesting him with Ich at that point?
Let me know how long i should wait after salt only treatment for new clown.
The salt bath was scary, but proved very effective. Thanks for all of the advice and support, i will post pics when i can, as Pontius is a rare coloration (almost white near the bottom with gold up top between dark stripes, but BRIGHT, not sickly).
the Wicked Ich of the West is DEAD!!!
Moderator: LoachForumModerators
That's very encouraging news 
Just remember that you need to keep treating for several days AFTER all spots are gone, because they can still be in the dormant stage and the free floating stage that comes after is when they are succeptible to any treatment. Don't want to prematurely assume its ALL gone just because the spots are. Give it a couple more days or you risk a re-lapse, ime.
Just remember that you need to keep treating for several days AFTER all spots are gone, because they can still be in the dormant stage and the free floating stage that comes after is when they are succeptible to any treatment. Don't want to prematurely assume its ALL gone just because the spots are. Give it a couple more days or you risk a re-lapse, ime.
If your tank can handle it (and your fish) keep the temp up for 3-5 days. Salt you can begin to diminish with water changes over that period.
But the 'your mileage may vary' still applies That's just what I'd do if I were you. You can see the tank, the state of the fish, and the results of the course of treatment you have just come through. My thinking is 'better safe than sorry', yours may be that 'enough is enough'... 
Whatever you choose, I hope it works out for the best!
But the 'your mileage may vary' still applies
That's just what I'd do if I were you. You can see the tank, the state of the fish, and the results of the course of treatment you have just come through. My thinking is 'better safe than sorry', yours may be that 'enough is enough'... Whatever you choose, I hope it works out for the best!
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Spankenstyne
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:14 am
- Location: Calgary, Alberta - Canada
Grats! Glad to hear you finally seem to have conquered.
I found similar results although the ich i was dealing with was very early stages, at least as far as being very visible. I found that i was rid of it with just the heat alone, although i can't be 100% as after about a week i dosed with aquarisol to try and treat what looked like CWS which i'm happy to say *appears* to have been beaten as well. Still too early to say for certain but all appear healthy and are putting on girth as we speak. I've noticed my Dario getting considerably thicker when before treatment they were getting very pinched looking especially from above with a couple having that sunken appearance behind the eyes through down the body.
It's been a couple of weeks now and have been finally putting the temps back down slowly over the last couple days. I only lost the two on about day 3 of getting them, and replaced them with two more which seem just fine as do the rest.
So far so good in the ongoing saga lol, and i'm happy to also say all my plants seem none the worse for the wear. Just a couple of small leaves sort of melted away but nothing noticeable.
I found similar results although the ich i was dealing with was very early stages, at least as far as being very visible. I found that i was rid of it with just the heat alone, although i can't be 100% as after about a week i dosed with aquarisol to try and treat what looked like CWS which i'm happy to say *appears* to have been beaten as well. Still too early to say for certain but all appear healthy and are putting on girth as we speak. I've noticed my Dario getting considerably thicker when before treatment they were getting very pinched looking especially from above with a couple having that sunken appearance behind the eyes through down the body.
It's been a couple of weeks now and have been finally putting the temps back down slowly over the last couple days. I only lost the two on about day 3 of getting them, and replaced them with two more which seem just fine as do the rest.
So far so good in the ongoing saga lol, and i'm happy to also say all my plants seem none the worse for the wear. Just a couple of small leaves sort of melted away but nothing noticeable.
i got a hell of a deal on a 100W heater, i can get a 10Gtank for bout 10 bucks. What CHEAP filtration can i run to operate this as a Qtank?? I have an air pump ( ELITE 803) that can support another airstone easily for the tank.
Im thinking about having to gravel in it for cleanliness... any recommendations on what else i need to keep a Q-tank(10G) running cost-efficiently?
Im thinking about having to gravel in it for cleanliness... any recommendations on what else i need to keep a Q-tank(10G) running cost-efficiently?
goto walmart and get a aquatech 5-15 HOB filter for $10.32. but my kubotai's and sidthimunki keep jumping into it. also you can do a sponge filter but unless you already have a air pump, it wont be (much) cheaper. plus HOB is better. i got a 2.5g Q tank, too. betta with ich is in it, and maracide isnt doing shit. i just got quick ich today, heaters are on their way from bigalsonline.
Some people keep their q-tanks bare-bottomed for easy cleaning, others go the whole route and have them as planted tanks...up to you, really If you go the bare bottom route make sure there's someplace for the fish to hide/feel secure like a piece of wood, or a pvc tube, or something to allow them to get away from traffic and lower their stress level.
My q-tank has actually morphed into an angelfish breeding tank and will be so for the next few weeks, still. Hoping no one gets sick in the meantime!
A cheap hang on the back filter will do, take some of the filter media from the established tank to jump start the cycle, and either keep a couple of fish in it, or only plan to set it up as needed. Works both ways.
I like having my 10g around ready to go, because you just can bet that as soon as I take it down, something comes up and even if you have it stashed in easy acess it takes a bit of work to get it set up again. I like having the ability to just pop in a fish that needs treatment without getting all involved in starting up a tank, getting filter media established in the new tank, finding all the junk for it, getting the right temp and pH to match the other tank water, etc. etc...besides, I like fish tanks...
My q (which isn't a q right now) is in the kitchen, which really pisses off the female angel cause she has to 'defend' from all that traffic... But it makes water changes/maintenance easier for me, it's pretty, makes observation almost a constant, (and we're enjoying watching the babies grow, too!) and it's easily accessible.
Look in your local paper for people with fish stuff for sale, or garage/yard sales, check around to see if there's a local fish club in your area, sometimes fish folk will share stuff for free, along with good adivce If you were in NJ I'd give you my corner box filter (if you want it) that runs on a air pump... but I think a HOB filter is better for water movement ...
If you go the bare bottom route make sure there's someplace for the fish to hide/feel secure like a piece of wood, or a pvc tube, or something to allow them to get away from traffic and lower their stress level.My q-tank has actually morphed into an angelfish breeding tank and will be so for the next few weeks, still. Hoping no one gets sick in the meantime
!A cheap hang on the back filter will do, take some of the filter media from the established tank to jump start the cycle, and either keep a couple of fish in it, or only plan to set it up as needed. Works both ways.
I like having my 10g around ready to go, because you just can bet that as soon as I take it down, something comes up and even if you have it stashed in easy acess it takes a bit of work to get it set up again. I like having the ability to just pop in a fish that needs treatment without getting all involved in starting up a tank, getting filter media established in the new tank, finding all the junk for it, getting the right temp and pH to match the other tank water, etc. etc...besides, I like fish tanks...
My q (which isn't a q right now) is in the kitchen, which really pisses off the female angel cause she has to 'defend' from all that traffic...
But it makes water changes/maintenance easier for me, it's pretty, makes observation almost a constant, (and we're enjoying watching the babies grow, too!) and it's easily accessible.Look in your local paper for people with fish stuff for sale, or garage/yard sales, check around to see if there's a local fish club in your area, sometimes fish folk will share stuff for free, along with good adivce
If you were in NJ I'd give you my corner box filter (if you want it) that runs on a air pump... but I think a HOB filter is better for water movement ...Re: the Wicked Ich of the West is DEAD!!!
how many days went by between you beginning treatment and not seeing any spots on the fish? i have 4 loaches in my Q tank, 1 sidthimunki (took the last one from the LFS) and 3 kubotai's, and they are all flashing. i needed a flashlight to see spots on the sidthimunki, and he wasnt that bad until yesterday he jumped into the filter, he mustve been in there for 8 hours, when i took him out he was totally covered with spots, again only noticable with a flashlight. now, he constantly has labored breathing but he is _extremely_ active, non stop flying around up and down with the kubotai's. The kubs are also flashing, but i dont see spots on them with or without a flashlight, except maybe a speckle on one's caudal fin.Xirxes wrote:Wow... its gone....its REALLY GONE!!!!
first day ive noticed no spots on any fish. Guess what worked for me?
Aquari-sol? no. Rid Ich+? no. Para-guard? no.
Good old Salt and heat! Salt to the tune of near 2.2-2.5 teaspoons per gallon, built up over 36 hours incrimentally, absolute darkness and sustained 86F.
Its a bit of a mixed victory because i could tell i had to push the clown to near deaths doorstep to kill the Ich, but i just did a water change to lower the salinity, and he is looking chipper today. Eating like a maniac.
Now my appartment is small. And i have no room/funds to operate a Qtank. How doi go about (in a weeks time or so, ensuring no more ich) adding a new friend for Pontius? And what is the likelihood of re-infesting him with Ich at that point?
Let me know how long i should wait after salt only treatment for new clown.
The salt bath was scary, but proved very effective. Thanks for all of the advice and support, i will post pics when i can, as Pontius is a rare coloration (almost white near the bottom with gold up top between dark stripes, but BRIGHT, not sickly).
I really want to save this sidthimunki, he's only 1.3". at first signs of his flashing, which were a week ago, i put in some maracide, it didnt really do anything and i didnt complete the cycle because i read malachite green is bad for loaches. yesterday, i decided not to wait for my heater in hte mail which i ordered from bigals, and went out and got one for the 10g Q tank, i just put it in last night, and increased hte temp from 80 to 83. ill do hte 83 to 86 today, slowly. I also got quick ich medicine from aquarium products. i heard really good thing sabout it, the LFS uses it, and told me to put in half the dosage for loaches. so i did that, and 12 hours later there are no results. am i fighting the wrong battle? is treatment for velvet basically the same? i also put a towel around the tank to keep it completely dark. what else can i do? i will cry if i lose all 4 loaches, much less my 1 sidthimunki
the medicines i have at my disposal right now include maracyn 1&2, maracide, quick ick, and metrozol
Well upon closer inspectionn, Podeidon has a few small spots on his caudal fin, so not gone completely, but he seems full healthy he only has 1or 2 small spots on his rear fully healthy now, bright colors have returned.
It has been a non stop battle...took me about 2 months to get it to where it is now.nd
however, i do not think that the meds did anything (except dye all silicone and tubing blue) for the loaches. I have had ich problems before (non loach) and Aquarisol for 3 days killed it. But, the salt did the trick for me. Active treating of salt is still in progress. I would say im at about...1 teaspoon ber gallon right now. i treated for 3 full days up to 2.5 teaspoons per gallong salinity and 86F temp, in complete darkness, covered with a thick sheet.
Ive done no salt w/water change twice since then and still quite a bit of salt in there, but seems to be tolerable.
He has a few spots as i had said, but water is clearer than ever ( put activated carbon back in) and he is dancing around like it never happened.
I just set up a Q tank for anynew additions. Waiting for ammonia to drop then will add some neon tetras that we wanted to cycle it, but i think no loaches for a month or so, after the Q tank is set up.
However i did just add two Gourami's (Blue powder, Fire) and they seem to be loving it.
In conclusion, i think that my hard water inhibits Ich med activity, and that the lack of salt (for the loaches sake) gave rise to easy Ich Breeding grounds, and that for hardwater, salt might be the ticket.
It has been a non stop battle...took me about 2 months to get it to where it is now.nd
however, i do not think that the meds did anything (except dye all silicone and tubing blue) for the loaches. I have had ich problems before (non loach) and Aquarisol for 3 days killed it. But, the salt did the trick for me. Active treating of salt is still in progress. I would say im at about...1 teaspoon ber gallon right now. i treated for 3 full days up to 2.5 teaspoons per gallong salinity and 86F temp, in complete darkness, covered with a thick sheet.
Ive done no salt w/water change twice since then and still quite a bit of salt in there, but seems to be tolerable.
He has a few spots as i had said, but water is clearer than ever ( put activated carbon back in) and he is dancing around like it never happened.
I just set up a Q tank for anynew additions. Waiting for ammonia to drop then will add some neon tetras that we wanted to cycle it, but i think no loaches for a month or so, after the Q tank is set up.
However i did just add two Gourami's (Blue powder, Fire) and they seem to be loving it.
In conclusion, i think that my hard water inhibits Ich med activity, and that the lack of salt (for the loaches sake) gave rise to easy Ich Breeding grounds, and that for hardwater, salt might be the ticket.
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