relocating tank to another room

[customanimalart]

Hi everyone:
I have a extablished (4yr+) clown loach/rainbowfish tank {180g 6ftx2x2} w/ stand that we would like to relocate to our kitchen approx 20-25 ft away. What are the best/easiest ways to do this without stressing the fish to much, make it easy as possible. I have a fluval fx5 filter (canister) and most of the fish range from 2.5 in-4.5 in. I have a shoal of 9 loaches.
The tank containes black sand, fake plants and some lava rock and slate rock which the loches pack themselves tightly into every night. Typical loach activity. We would like to add more fish at a later time, but would really like to get this tank move with as litttle disassembly as possible first.

No doubt, I have to remove the fish and water, but I'd like to keep everything else in tact and just move the tank and stand in one go. Any suggestions???
My idea was to keep 50% of the water, using that to 'hold' the fish with a few plants, in a large trashcan, and just simply add clean water after the move once the fish are put back into the tank. The remaining water would be held in other cans. (55g sized ones)

I always have done 50% water changes for them,so they are used to that.
Any advise is appreciated. thanks
Loaches are so sensitive, I would hate this move to be ther demise. We are trying to get them to grow even larger. They are our favorites ever. An Ich breakout is not something I want to happen

[Diana]

Use as many bucket or garbage cans as needed. Plastic storage containers are a good way to go. They are usually shallower than a garbage can, so there is more air-water contact for better gas exchange.
Put clean water from the tank into these containers. Add the fish. Keep the aggressive fish separate, and keep Loaches separate. Some Loaches can produce what seems to be toxic slime coat when something like this happens. Kills the other fish in the bucket. This is a good time to use Stress Coat. Put lids on all containers with fish. The dark is better, less stressful, and the fish cannot jump out. Remember to catch spiny fish (Cats, Loaches) with a cup, not a net.
Disconnect all the equipment, and set it aside. If the wait will be more than an hour or so then I would open the filter to allow some oxygen to get to the filter media. If it will take more than a couple of hours then I would put the filter media in a bucket with some tank water. The nitrifying bacteria do not need to be under water, but need lots of oxygen and a humid atmosphere.
To move the tank have LOTS of helpers who will do exactly as you tell them.
Remove as much of everything from the tank as you can. Do not try to move it with everything still in there.
If you can slide the stand with tank on the floor this is safe for tank and stand, but may scratch hardwood floors.
If you need to move them separately lift the tank off the stand in a way that you and your helpers are keeping it level and square. Long tanks are especially prone to twisting if the lifting is not done right. If you can set the tank on a temporary stand this would be really helpful. (Saw horses with a sheet of plywood, check that it is level) Move the stand, and make sure it is plumb, level and square. Move the tank, and also make sure it is plumb, level and square. This is a good chance to replace any foam or mat you had under the tank with fresh material.
Then fill the tank in this order:
Substrate, driftwood and rocks. Make whatever hills and valleys you want.
Plant it.
Add the equipment, but do not plug it in yet.
Add new water (don't forget the dechlor!) and add reserved water this way: Put a plate or plastic bag over the substrate and pour the water in slowly. About 1 gallon per minute. Allow the water to run over the edge of the plastic bag to seep into the subtrate. In a large tank like this you could set up 2 or 3 plastic bags and fill it faster. Once the water level is deep enough so the substrate is not disturbrd you can run the water in faster. When it is full enough turn on the filter(s) and powerheads to be sure the flow is how you want it. Turn on other equipment such as heaters.
For some added insurance about the cycle bacteria add some Dr. Tim's One and Only or Tetra Safe Start. These products contain the actual species of nitrifying bacteria that may be needed. They could be added directly into the filter, or into the tank.
Add fish. Do not add the water they were kept in. Fish under stress produce stress hormones, and excess ammonia. You do not want to add this to the new set up.

Moving is a good excuse to clean the tank more thoroughly. I will usually clean the substrate as I am removing the water, by removing almost all the water through a gravel vacuum. Much more thorough than when I am doing smaller water changes and the fish are in the tank. It is not such a good idea to also clean the filter. The nitrifying bacteria may die off somewhat, and cleaning the filter and the tank so thoroughly all at the same time is not a good idea.
Clean the filter a week or more before the move.