PHOTOS

[FranM]

I will def redose. The packaging says that after four days the stuff completely breaks down so there would be no need to do a water change. Depending if I have the time I will certainly do it. But it seems like it’s not crucial if I do not.

Thanks Loach!!

[NancyD]

I think I'd still redose again after 10-14 days just to make sure you kill all the eggs & larva stages. It "says " it gets them, but if you have enough drug, do it again.

[FranM]

Ok Nancy!

I’m praying this works.

[Loachloach]

Redosing in a couple of weeks is only applicable to flukes. Fran already dosed prazi which covers flukes and all other tapeworms. As long as the prazi was left in the water for 2-3 weeks, it should have covered that. Plus fish flick if they have flukes. Prazi is very stable in water so only removal is water changes and chemical media.
The main here could be nematodes(round worms). For that the double dose of flubendazole 4 days apart is enough for heavy infestations. There are no egg stages. It will cover hexamita as long as its dosed twice 4 days apart.

[FranM]

Yes, I did redose with Prazipro. Clown was flicking, that is true and it worked wonders. Was pretty listless too at the time. Tomorrow I can redose with Flubendazole again. I don’t know if I’m trying to see an improvement that’s not there, but I do see a touch! This was without studying it. I was also away for the day yesterday so I feel like I’m seeing with a new pair of eyes. Going to feed twice today. And need to check parameters too.

I really appreciate the continued input and interest girls. Thank you.

[FranM]

Do you think the Flubendazole messes with water parameters? The TDS is high (181) and KH was 2. I had just done a significant water change on Sunday and put in two new Nitrazorb packs.

Thanks.

[NancyD]

I'm not sure, but flubendazole is dissolved in the water column. Seems like it might raise TDS.

On the redosing thing, I think I'm remembering from levamisole days when it didn't kill eggs. I go for better safe than having to retreat. I've also read flubendazole might not kill all nematodes in all stages. There were some less than successful treatments in old discus threads...but discus people are a different breed than loachy people; I've been both at times

I don't remember, did you do a round of antibiotics? Gram negative & gram positive?

[FranM]

I have never done antibiotics at all because I don’t know which issue I need to go after. Is it going tobe like giving antibiotics to a person with a viral infection? I’ve never wanted to mess up the biological filtration or treat with antibiotics unnecessarily if that wasn’t the problem. And I’m also wondering, if that clown DOES have a problem in which an antibiotic is necessary, wouldn’t it, after all this time, have spread to other fish?

Thank you.

[NancyD]

I'm just thinking if flubendazole doesn't work what else you might try. Weight loss is a sign of parasites & is my first thought, but it can be for other issues too. Not all your fish would necessarily be susceptible to a given bacteria. I had a chronic columnaris infection that only hit 1 species over more than a year. Antibiotics cleared it up but it came back over & over. I also tried UV.

Really, I'm hoping this treatment works for your clown.

[FranM]

Thank you Nancy. After a few weeks, if this treatment doesn’t hit the nail on the head, I may explore other treatment suggestions. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thank you much. Today is the day I redose for the second time.

[Loachloach]

How is the loach doing?

The amount of parasites/worms affecting the fish is endless...Flubendazole is at least comprehensive enough, so should be given a shot. I have not come accross discus threads stating flubendazole does not work...Perhaps Nancy means fenbendazole? It causes head standing in discus...People used it after confusing it with flubendazole.....Flubendazole is effective against many parasites, round worms and some tape worms.....Most people using antiparasitic meds have no idea what the med treats...and what their fish has...Given two variables, the chances of succeeding are little. Its best if one has a microscope but that's not something everyone can get their hands on, plus one has to have the knowledge to know what they're looking at...

[NancyD]

Loach, what I read said flubendazole but I've seen it confused with fenbendazole more than once. There was some mention of resistant nematodes but like you said they may not know what parasite. Several hard core discus people I knew did have microscopes to check waste.

[Loachloach]

Well, I wouldn't compare discus to loaches. Clown loaches are mostly wild caught, and are a lot better and healthier fish for that, and even come less infested than home bred discus. Discus keepers tend to deal with a lot of "resistant" stuff due to the way discus have been kept in the last decades....Flubendazole treats what it treats...nothing more, nothing less. The dosage may need to vary depending on the level of infestation or size of the fish...But if the med works even to an extent, some improvement should be noticed as the fish is relieved of the majority of the pathogens. Subsequent dosage then could be adjusted/added. If no improvement is noticed, I'd move on.

[FranM]

Loach you asked how my clown is doing. Seems to be doing well. I don’t see a major change in its condition but it’s certainly not worse! I redosed yesterday so I will see what the weekend brings.

Thank you.

[Loachloach]

Keep us posted.

Long time ago when I saved a very emaciated fish, it took 3 months for it to recover. The only reason I noticed changes early on was because I took pictures just before the treatment! Pictures are a good way to evaluate things like that.