water testing
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water testing
Good Evening,
What is the preferred method of testing water parameters for you professionals? Also, I have black gravel in my 55gal tank, would it be practical to change to a softer substrate for the loaches or will that cause a bio nightmare? I saw a black substrate at a local shop that stated it already contained bacteria & not to rinse.
Thanks, this forum is extremely educational & photos are awesome!
DI
What is the preferred method of testing water parameters for you professionals? Also, I have black gravel in my 55gal tank, would it be practical to change to a softer substrate for the loaches or will that cause a bio nightmare? I saw a black substrate at a local shop that stated it already contained bacteria & not to rinse.
Thanks, this forum is extremely educational & photos are awesome!
DI
Testing strips are not always very accurate, but they are fast.
Test tube-and-liquid-reagent sorts of tests are generally more accurate, but you get what you pay for.
Something like La Mott, or Hatch are better than the off-the-shelf fish store test kits.
I generally use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kits, and a strip test made by Jungle. I am usually aiming to watch a trend, or compare similar conditions, so that minor flaws in the tests are not so much of an issue. It is not the absolute number I am aiming for, but just keep that parameter stable.
I used my tests on a friend's well water, softened (Sodium exchange) and RO water. Both sorts of tests registered similar numbers, (at least within the accuracy of my reading the tests) except for the nitrates. The dip stick test strip showed about twice the level of nitrates as the AP test. All others were within 10%.
Test tube-and-liquid-reagent sorts of tests are generally more accurate, but you get what you pay for.
Something like La Mott, or Hatch are better than the off-the-shelf fish store test kits.
I generally use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kits, and a strip test made by Jungle. I am usually aiming to watch a trend, or compare similar conditions, so that minor flaws in the tests are not so much of an issue. It is not the absolute number I am aiming for, but just keep that parameter stable.
I used my tests on a friend's well water, softened (Sodium exchange) and RO water. Both sorts of tests registered similar numbers, (at least within the accuracy of my reading the tests) except for the nitrates. The dip stick test strip showed about twice the level of nitrates as the AP test. All others were within 10%.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
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I agree with Diana and all here testing advice. I'd also like to say the nitrate tests are grossly innacurate (for the off the shelf kits) but thats the least one to worry about, and you can always calibrate it with a nitrate solution if you really want to.
For the substarte I'd not worry about the color unless you dont actually like it. The most spectacular tanks I've seen were heavily planted with black susbstrate (like Eco Complete and Aquasoil Amazonia). It is a royal pain to switch substrates so unless you have a good reason I'd stick with what you have. But it is important - at least with loaches - that you atleast have a smooth textured substrate. Anything abrasive would be bad for soft bellied fish and thier barbels.
For the substarte I'd not worry about the color unless you dont actually like it. The most spectacular tanks I've seen were heavily planted with black susbstrate (like Eco Complete and Aquasoil Amazonia). It is a royal pain to switch substrates so unless you have a good reason I'd stick with what you have. But it is important - at least with loaches - that you atleast have a smooth textured substrate. Anything abrasive would be bad for soft bellied fish and thier barbels.
Basically, I only use Seachem Ammonia Alert's and a TDS meter. The ammonia alert is a real time color meter that sits in the tank and lets me know if anything is fouling up the water. The TDS meter lets me instantly know if the water in my tanks is safe for doing water changes.
IMO, water changes can potentially be the most dangerous thing a fish goes though in an aquarium. With a TDS comparison between the tank water and tap water I can evaluate water quality rather easily.
IMO, water changes can potentially be the most dangerous thing a fish goes though in an aquarium. With a TDS comparison between the tank water and tap water I can evaluate water quality rather easily.
water testing
WOW, great info thanks to each of you!! DI
water testing
What is meant by....IF the water in my tank is SAFE for changing?? The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know! thanks again, DI
Test the tank water. Test the tap water (Or whatever water you are planning on using for a water change.) If the new water needs to be adjusted, then add what you need to and test again to be sure it is ready.
A tank that has been without water changes for a while tends to change chemically, so your tap water may not be OK for a large water change, even if it was safe, and used to work without a problem.
Water companies will change the tap water, too. What used to be OK may not be OK every time.
A tank that has been without water changes for a while tends to change chemically, so your tap water may not be OK for a large water change, even if it was safe, and used to work without a problem.
Water companies will change the tap water, too. What used to be OK may not be OK every time.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
Re: water testing
Pretty much what Diana said.DI wrote:What is meant by....IF the water in my tank is SAFE for changing?? The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know! thanks again, DI
I'll add more to it though.
Water Changes could be dangerous If-
-IF Water changes haven't been done for awhile
-IF there has been a great deal of evaporation
-IF something is leaching in the aquarium such as calcifying rocks.
Why?
Because it will stress the fishes osmotic regulation system if the water change is done too quickly.
Symptoms of Osmotic Shock-
Rapid Breathing is an immediate sign. Some of the gill cells may have exploded because they were overwhelmed with salts/solids trying to excrete from the body. Fish may eventually die from asphyxiation.
Dropsy, Bloating, or Swim-bladder problems. These symptoms usually show up 1-2 days later. The Kidneys and/or other organs are being overwhelmed with toxins/wastes. This may lead to organ failure, then death.
Terminology-
Salts- are minerals or Dissolved Solids. These are the minerals that add to the water’s density/specific gravity. This is the GH (calcium, magnesium), KH(bicarbonates), and other minerals that may have dissolved in the water.
Osmotic regulation- Is the relationship of water versus dissolved solids in the fish’s cells and the external environment. It’s the fish’s ability to balance with the density of the water. If the water’s TDS decreases, the fish needs to expel salts. If the TDS increases, the fish will expel water (dehydrate), then will adjust salts. Decreasing TDS is more of a shock to the system than increasing the TDS.
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) – The amount of mineral and salt impurities in the water. A TDS Meter measures water in PPM. Pure water will have 0 ppm TDS reading. Most Freshwater fish will generally have a TDS under 400.
All this is for Freshwater Fish only. Saltwater Fish are different.
water testing
Terrific info, I am learning much needed facts to be a good parent to my loaches!! It's scarey how little most of us really do know about maintaining a great aquarium... Thanks again, DI
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It should be said here, I think, that if your water supply is regular - not subject to wild swings in chemistry - and your water changes are regular and consistent, you shouldn't need to worry about these issues once the tank is established.
I think the key is to make the water changes very consistent, and keep muck from building up in your tank. A lot of new aquarists would benefit from looking at things in the long term rather than being overly worried about every step they're making as they ascend the learning curve. Once you and the tank and the fish are used to the regular water changes, you should have no problems. I don't even think about these details any more - just make sure that every Sunday the same thing happens to the tank. I haven't lost a fish in years.
ChefKeith and Diana offer good advice though. Just my two bits.
I think the key is to make the water changes very consistent, and keep muck from building up in your tank. A lot of new aquarists would benefit from looking at things in the long term rather than being overly worried about every step they're making as they ascend the learning curve. Once you and the tank and the fish are used to the regular water changes, you should have no problems. I don't even think about these details any more - just make sure that every Sunday the same thing happens to the tank. I haven't lost a fish in years.
ChefKeith and Diana offer good advice though. Just my two bits.
Your vantage point determines what you can see.
water testing
Thanks for the NEW perspective, all info is helpful! DI
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