DIY Filters

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HSTurning
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DIY Filters

Post by HSTurning » Fri Sep 04, 2009 2:02 pm

I was wondering if anyone has made a large filter system. I plan on having a large amount of water and was wondering if I could make my own filter to save money.

It would be a central system in another room.
I need more tanks, more more more

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Keith Wolcott
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Post by Keith Wolcott » Fri Sep 04, 2009 2:19 pm

I know Tinman has a DIY filter system for his large system of tanks. Try a search for his posts. I know that I have seen pictures and a description of it.

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Keith Wolcott
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Post by Keith Wolcott » Fri Sep 04, 2009 2:27 pm

After a bit of searching, I found Tinman's link, but the photo links no longer work so I am afraid that it is not much help. Where are you Tinman? You have been missed here.

http://forums.loaches.com/viewtopic.php ... ght=filter

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chefkeith
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Post by chefkeith » Fri Sep 04, 2009 2:42 pm

Jonathon, AKA The Fish Guy, AKA MonsterFishRescue, has a large DIY filtration system for his main tank.
One of his threads can be found here- http://forums.loaches.com/viewtopic.php?t=16188

He has some other detailed threads and videos on his build at cichlid-forum.com and at YouTube

wasserscheu
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Post by wasserscheu » Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:42 pm

If I had lots of space, I'd have a container with incoming water in center and output on top. Purpose would be just to make the particles sink to the bottom (low waterspeed) and possibly a drain valve at the bottom to just release (flush) the settled mud (every day would be easy, just open valve, let dirt out and refill a bit water).
2nd stage would be a "mattenfilter" (please search here for a couple of postings regarding mattenfilter or HMF ...). This would be made as a biofilter.

Third stage, a fine filter, or alternative some "flowerpot" (means plants that are "automatically watered" please see "vancmans" post, or could be a sump system too).

Hehe it's easy to say what I WOULD do. I wonder what I will do someday - most likely a mattenfilter. However, in one part of my pipesytem, the diameter increases due to a "T intersection. That is enough to lower the speed there and the debris drops at that spot, falling into a little tank, where it could be sucked of.
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OneWay
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Post by OneWay » Fri Sep 04, 2009 5:06 pm

I have 2 DIY trickle filters with bioballs on my ~300g system that is working great. I use plants and carbon in a sump to get more benefit out of the system.

check out this page-->
http://forums.loaches.com/viewtopic.php ... c&start=30

the sump in operation
Image


good luck

HSTurning
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Post by HSTurning » Fri Sep 04, 2009 5:14 pm

I am looking for something in large rummermaid style containers or barrels. I want to have cheap easy to find filter material. I am planning on getting to about 1200 gallons. Right now I have a have a Marineland C360 on my 55. That is turning the tank over about 6 times and hour and I would like to get that amount of turn over if not more.

I willl look into the post mentioned when I have a chance.
I need more tanks, more more more

Diana
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Post by Diana » Sat Sep 05, 2009 1:10 am

The biggest concern I have about DIY filters is making the media contact the sides of the container so that the water passes through the media, not around the sides.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.

Happy fish keeping!

BotiaMaximus
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Post by BotiaMaximus » Sat Sep 05, 2009 10:55 am

Here is something you could consider for your return to the tank. It's a DIY particulate filter I am using (here in test phase). Just a standard GE whole house water filter. The cartridge in the photo is a 30 micron you can get 350 gph through it, they also have 5 micron cartridges that you can move 250 gph through. The cartridges are $4 and $6 respectively and last me 2 weeks in my 75 gallon along with the Marineland C220 and two Emperor 400's running on the tank. The filter housing itself was about $30 at the Home Depot. A larger almost double size unit was also available.
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"Long May You Loach"

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bookpage
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Post by bookpage » Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:48 pm

Where did you get the intake for the GE filter?

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240 - Clowns(15), Polka-Dot(6), Sids(57), Zebra(12), Burmese(5), Red-fin(4), YoYo(5), Sumo(2), Skunk(4), Peckoltia sabaji(1), L144 Black Eye Bristlenose Pleco(3), Odessa Barb(9), Roseline Sharks(6)

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BotiaMaximus
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Post by BotiaMaximus » Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:12 pm

The pump is a Marineland MaxiJet 1100 I ordered from the Fosters & Smith website, and just by luck the Python water change fittings are the correct size and thread pattern for the filter housing. That pump is a bit undersized - it is what I use to pump water from my holding tank to the tanks for waterchanges but it works. The Marineland 1800 or QuietOne 4000HH are good choices.
"Long May You Loach"

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bookpage
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Post by bookpage » Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:07 pm

Thank you for the information.
240 - Clowns(15), Polka-Dot(6), Sids(57), Zebra(12), Burmese(5), Red-fin(4), YoYo(5), Sumo(2), Skunk(4), Peckoltia sabaji(1), L144 Black Eye Bristlenose Pleco(3), Odessa Barb(9), Roseline Sharks(6)

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Diana
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Post by Diana » Sun Sep 06, 2009 1:02 am

For a really large system I would think about a basic layout first, then fill in the specifics.

1) Out from tank.
2) Filtration
..a) Mechanical
..b) Chemical
..c) Biological
3) Pump- External to tank, perhaps an above-the-water type used for spas or pools if your system is that big.
4) Return to tank
5) Safety.
6) Extras: Things you can add to a sump.


Details to think about:
1) Out from tank:
Large enough to carry large water flow.
Screened to minimize fish entry
Bottom of tank pickup to get the most debris
Other.
(What happens in case of power out?)

2a) Coarsest sponge, or even a grid such as a plastic 1/4" mesh.
A couple of coarsnesses of sponges: Coarse, medium, fine.
2b) Varies: Activated Carbon? Purigen? Peat Moss? Other?
2c) Nitrifying bacteria will live on the sponges, but a separate media may not be a bad idea. How about something like this:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... atid=15799
The coarsest of these could actually be used first, ahead of the mechanical media, especially if this is an open sump style and this media can be set up right under the line from the tank as a wet-dry material. It is very easy to clean of any coarse debris (plant leaves and similar material) and allows finer debris to flow through so the bacteria are not smothered.
also 2c) live plants? Great Bio-filter!

3) Sized for the system you want, isolated with shut off valves, unions and flapper style one way fittings so you can service it without flooding the filter room, and power out does not result in water flowing backwards, out of the tank, past the pump and into the sump to overflow. Not oil cooled. Many pumps can be controlled with a valve and choked down by 25% without a problem. Shutting down the flow more than that may cause problems with some pumps.

4) Spray bar, several point source returns. Does the water in/water out flow pattern result in a good overall water movement, and good cleaning of tight spots so debris does not build up? You can add more plumbing to direct a little water flow into these dead spots...

5) Follow what happens to the water in a 'power out' situation. Will it stay in the tank? Will the sump overflow? Does the pump need priming to re-start? Lots of research as you are designing the system. Lots of "What happens if...?"
GFI outlets.
Drain in the floor of the filter room.
Sink, water supply.

6) Heater, Auto fill, Auto dosing for plants, CO2, Monitors for all sorts of water chemistry, other. More research here, too. See number 5.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.

Happy fish keeping!

BotiaMaximus
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Location: St. Pete, Florida

Post by BotiaMaximus » Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:55 pm

Lots of good points laid out there Diana!

I like that filter material 1.5 inches thick! A little pricey, but it should last for nearly forever. Looks like good stuff!
"Long May You Loach"

Diana
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Post by Diana » Sun Sep 06, 2009 5:17 pm

Forever and then some! Yes, it is pricey, but it is bacteria media and mechanical filtration. It is available in several densities. I have some in a few of my sumps. It is stiff enough to stand up by itself, and supports some of the other media, such as finer sponges or floss that has no structure.

Shop around for better pricing. It is more likely to be found at pond related sites than aquarium places.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.

Happy fish keeping!

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