I have a Loach for about 20 years. For most of this time she has been alone in the tank. I have tried introducing other loaches but she seems to taunt them until they die. She is about 30.5 cm or 12 inches. I may be forced to move to another home and I am concerned as to the best way to move her with the least amount of stress. She is housed in an aquarium that is about 3.5 feet long and has been in the same aquarium her entire life. I am not sure weather to put her in a new aquarium using the same water as the old one or to just keep the old one. I am also concerned about the best way to move her causing the least amount of stress. I would appreciate s uggestions.
Thanks.
TRANSPORTING A LOACH
Moderator: LoachForumModerators
I am no expert, but here is what i have done in the past with great success. If anyone else has a better method or suggestions please add them. Depending on how much time you have to move and the conditions you might be able to do it like this. i like to move my fish tanks last, but set them up first. This way the fish are stressed as little as possible.
Step 1 Pick the new tank location
So decide on location of the tank in the new house, check the water chemistry, make any new water you may need.
Step 2 Get the fish out
Drain water out of the tank into a good container w/lid. In the past, i have used a 35 gallon rubbermaid trash can with a lid. It is sturdy, dark, and holds a good amount of water. As you drain your tank fill the trash can as much as you and help can safely carry. I fill it just over half way and put a powerhead/air stone and heater if needed in with the fish. Make sure the inlet is covered so the fish to not get pulled in. The current and dark will help keep the stress down on the fish. The lid is a must since to keep it dark and to keep the fish from jumping. You can get a power converter for you car/truck and keep the pumps/stone going. You may need a good converter to keep the heater running.
Step 3 Tear the tank down the rest of the way
Remove whatever water or decor is left in the tank after catching the loaches... i normally have to remove almost everything to catch mine.
You can save all the water, but I normally save just about 1/2 of it. It all depends on how much time, effort, and strong backs you got to help
Step 4 Set up the tank in the new location
Set up your tank and get it the way you want it. Add as much water from your old tank as you reasonably can, but most importantly check your temp and water chemistry. Try to have the new tank and the moving container the same.
Step 5 Add the fish w/remaining water
I will now bring the fish to the new location. I do not even move the barrel until i am ready to add the last of the water and fish from the trash can. When i am comfortable with both conditions of the tank and trash can water. I move the water, then the fish into the new set up.
I try to do this whole thing as fast as possible, but a lot of things maybe out of your control and you may not be able to do things as listed above. If the fish have to be in the moving container for more than 2 hours, i would suggest you have a canister or other type of filter going. I would even consider water changes for prolonged time in the moving container.
Good luck and I hope this helps.
Step 1 Pick the new tank location
So decide on location of the tank in the new house, check the water chemistry, make any new water you may need.
Step 2 Get the fish out
Drain water out of the tank into a good container w/lid. In the past, i have used a 35 gallon rubbermaid trash can with a lid. It is sturdy, dark, and holds a good amount of water. As you drain your tank fill the trash can as much as you and help can safely carry. I fill it just over half way and put a powerhead/air stone and heater if needed in with the fish. Make sure the inlet is covered so the fish to not get pulled in. The current and dark will help keep the stress down on the fish. The lid is a must since to keep it dark and to keep the fish from jumping. You can get a power converter for you car/truck and keep the pumps/stone going. You may need a good converter to keep the heater running.
Step 3 Tear the tank down the rest of the way
Remove whatever water or decor is left in the tank after catching the loaches... i normally have to remove almost everything to catch mine.
You can save all the water, but I normally save just about 1/2 of it. It all depends on how much time, effort, and strong backs you got to help
Step 4 Set up the tank in the new location
Set up your tank and get it the way you want it. Add as much water from your old tank as you reasonably can, but most importantly check your temp and water chemistry. Try to have the new tank and the moving container the same.
Step 5 Add the fish w/remaining water
I will now bring the fish to the new location. I do not even move the barrel until i am ready to add the last of the water and fish from the trash can. When i am comfortable with both conditions of the tank and trash can water. I move the water, then the fish into the new set up.
I try to do this whole thing as fast as possible, but a lot of things maybe out of your control and you may not be able to do things as listed above. If the fish have to be in the moving container for more than 2 hours, i would suggest you have a canister or other type of filter going. I would even consider water changes for prolonged time in the moving container.
Good luck and I hope this helps.
There are several important things to consider when moving fish.
1) Water parameters. This means: Will the new water have the same mineral levels as the old water. If not, then you will need to make gradual changes in the water parameters so the fish adapts to the new water with less stress.
What is the GH, KH and TDS of the current water and of the water at the new place?
2) Nitrifying bacteria. These are the beneficial bacteria that live in the filter and elsewhere. They remove ammonia and nitrite from the water and turn it into nitrate. These bacteria cannot tolerate drying out, and have a high need for oxygen. Some suggestions below for safely maintaining high levels of nitrifying bacteria through the move.
3) Territory markers. The fish knows certain rocks, driftwood and plants mark 'Home Territory'. Bring these with the fish and set them up in the new tank. Even if you rearrange them. The glass box itself is not so critical. However, a foot long fish in a 3 or 4' tank is not going to allow too many other fish in there. There just is not enough territory to share.
Here is an item I wrote about how to move an aquarium with information on conserving the bacteria and keeping the fish safe. I have added a few comments specifically about moving a 12" Loach.
BEFORE THE MOVE
A) Water chemistry.
When fish are moved to water that is different from what they were used to this can cause problems. If there is any way you can find out ahead of time what the water is like at the new location you can start acclimating the fish before the move. Test GH, KH, TDS and pH.
If the GH or KH is up to 2 degrees higher at the new place, this is OK.
If the GH or KH is no more than 1 degree lower at the new place, this is OK.
If the TDS is within 15% higher or 10% lower at the new place this is OK.
If the pH is within .2 either way, this is OK. The pH could vary even more, and is not likely to be a problem if the other tests are well within the safe limits.
If any test is beyond these numbers, then alter the aquarium water a little bit in that direction with each water change for a couple of weeks before the move. If the water is really way off you might need to bring some water with you from the old location, or buy reverse osmosis water at the new place and add minerals to make it into a transition sort of mix.
B) Disturbing the debris.
Start cleaning the tank ahead of time. A few really deep, thorough gravel vacs in the couple of weeks preceding the move can really help. Clean the filter several days or a week before the move. Allow the beneficial bacteria several days or longer recovery time before the move. Do not clean the filter on the same day you move.
C) Assemble what you need.
Buckets, towels, packing material, ice chest… Several suggestions follow.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 1, PACKING
A) Do not feed the fish in the morning. (Less waste to add to the water)
B) Unplug, turn off all equipment.
C) Fill the containers the fish will be in about 25% with water from the tank. Remaining space is for air. Separate the fish by species, and do not put too many in one container. If it is an aggressive species separate each fish. Add a stress relief product, such as Stress Coat. A product that locks up ammonia is great, too.
1) A 5 gallon bucket could hold 1.5 gallons of water and up to 6” of fish. Put the lid on right away! Longer trip = less fish per bucket. For a foot long fish you might use a longer, lower storage box. Add an air pump. These are available from boating stores. They run off 12 volt batteries (car battery). Get the help of a friend to carry the box to avoid sloshing the fish around.
2) Plastic bags similar to fish store bags can hold 2-6” of fish. Larger fish = larger bags. There are even really big bags that Koi dealers will have for much larger fish. Caution: Loaches have spines that can poke holes in plastic bags. Tie off the corners so the fish will not dive into the corners and get trapped. Double bag any fish with spines. Put the bags in a Styrofoam box or ice chest for insulation. Breather bags are available from Kordon. Follow their directions (full bag, proper stocking levels, proper packing)
D) Plants in separate buckets, bags or plastic storage containers. Cooler is better than too warm. About 65* to 75* is optimum for most tropical plants. Plants with stiff leaves may not need to be underwater if the container is sealed and humid. Plants could be wrapped in damp newspaper or paper towel and packed in plastic bags in boxes.
E) Filter media with nitrifying bacteria should be kept in a humid place, but does not need to be underwater. Cool is better than too warm, but not freezing. About 60* - 75* is optimum, cooler is OK. If the trip is less than an hour you could keep the media in the filter, just drain the water. For longer trips a separate container will allow the bacteria more oxygen. For example, dump all the media into a bucket with a few inches of water and seal it.
F) Substrate also has a lot of nitrifying bacteria, and can be heavy. Buckets intended for heavy stuff would be best. Do not leave it in the tank.
G) Driftwood could be kept damp in a garbage bag. Large rocks might be best carried one at a time. You will probably loose the bacteria on the rocks, but this is not enough to worry about.
H) All other equipment: Pack it so it won’t break. Wrap the tank and stand for protection.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 2, MOVING
A) A short move, a few minutes to a couple of hours is best done in one day. If you can choose to travel in mild weather, this is best. If you run the air conditioner or heater make sure the plants, fish and bacteria are away from the vents, in a location with a stable temperature. You can get a 12 volt air pump to help the fish. Try a store that specializes in equipment for boaters, they use such pumps to keep bait and catch alive. This will run off your car battery. Drill a couple of holes in the lids of the buckets and put an air line into each bucket with a gentle bubbler in the water. Keep the fish in the dark, it is less stressful.
B) A longer move (overnight, stop at motel) must be planned more carefully. Keep the fish, plants and bacteria in moderate temperatures. Air pump is even more important than for a short move. If you are really worried bring some water for water changes, and re-bag the fish every other day.
C) Longer than this you might consider shipping the fish to a friend or to an aquarium service company or a store near the new location. Then you will have more time to get the aquarium set up, and the fish will have a shorter travel time.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 3, ARRIVAL
A) Get the fish, plants and bacteria into a location with stable temperature.
B) Prepare as much new water as you will need. (Minerals, dechlor, peat... whatever it takes to make the new water match the old water)
C) Set up the stand, and be sure it is level. Add tank, and equipment. (Do not plug in anything.)
D) Put substrate in the tank. Fill with water just below the substrate.
E) Add rocks, driftwood and plants. Mist the plants a lot.
F) Fill the tank but run the water in slowly onto a plate or sheet of plastic. Slow and gentle, it will seep into the substrate and not cloud the water.
G) Add Nitrospiros sp. of nitrifying bacteria, this replaces the nitrifying bacteria that may have died during the move. These are the actual species of nitrifying bacteria and can be found in bottles. As of the date I wrote this: Tetra Safe Start, Dr. Tim's One and Only and Microbe Lift's Nite Out II are the products with the correct species of bacteria. All other 'bacteria in a bottle' products are a waste of money. Wrong species of bacteria.
H) Turn on and test the equipment. Adjust as needed.
I) Net the fish out of the buckets. Or catch them in a container, if they are fish with spines. Drain the water from this container back into the bucket. The water the fish were moved with has a lot of ammonia and stress hormones. Do not add this to the tank. Loaches especially. These fish can produce something in their slime coat when they are stressed that kills other fish. You certainly do not want to add this to the new tank.
J) Lights off the rest of the day. Feed only if the fish seem settled in well.
FIRST WEEK
A) Test daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to be sure the bacteria have recovered. Water changes as needed.
B) Feed lightly for a few days if needed. If the fish and bacteria are well settled regular meals are fine.
C) Add plant fertilizer at ¼ the regular rate for a while. The plants need time to reestablish before they need or can use the full dose of fertilizer.
D) Monitor all the equipment to be sure it also has made the move OK. Heater and CO2 might need some adjustment.
1) Water parameters. This means: Will the new water have the same mineral levels as the old water. If not, then you will need to make gradual changes in the water parameters so the fish adapts to the new water with less stress.
What is the GH, KH and TDS of the current water and of the water at the new place?
2) Nitrifying bacteria. These are the beneficial bacteria that live in the filter and elsewhere. They remove ammonia and nitrite from the water and turn it into nitrate. These bacteria cannot tolerate drying out, and have a high need for oxygen. Some suggestions below for safely maintaining high levels of nitrifying bacteria through the move.
3) Territory markers. The fish knows certain rocks, driftwood and plants mark 'Home Territory'. Bring these with the fish and set them up in the new tank. Even if you rearrange them. The glass box itself is not so critical. However, a foot long fish in a 3 or 4' tank is not going to allow too many other fish in there. There just is not enough territory to share.
Here is an item I wrote about how to move an aquarium with information on conserving the bacteria and keeping the fish safe. I have added a few comments specifically about moving a 12" Loach.
BEFORE THE MOVE
A) Water chemistry.
When fish are moved to water that is different from what they were used to this can cause problems. If there is any way you can find out ahead of time what the water is like at the new location you can start acclimating the fish before the move. Test GH, KH, TDS and pH.
If the GH or KH is up to 2 degrees higher at the new place, this is OK.
If the GH or KH is no more than 1 degree lower at the new place, this is OK.
If the TDS is within 15% higher or 10% lower at the new place this is OK.
If the pH is within .2 either way, this is OK. The pH could vary even more, and is not likely to be a problem if the other tests are well within the safe limits.
If any test is beyond these numbers, then alter the aquarium water a little bit in that direction with each water change for a couple of weeks before the move. If the water is really way off you might need to bring some water with you from the old location, or buy reverse osmosis water at the new place and add minerals to make it into a transition sort of mix.
B) Disturbing the debris.
Start cleaning the tank ahead of time. A few really deep, thorough gravel vacs in the couple of weeks preceding the move can really help. Clean the filter several days or a week before the move. Allow the beneficial bacteria several days or longer recovery time before the move. Do not clean the filter on the same day you move.
C) Assemble what you need.
Buckets, towels, packing material, ice chest… Several suggestions follow.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 1, PACKING
A) Do not feed the fish in the morning. (Less waste to add to the water)
B) Unplug, turn off all equipment.
C) Fill the containers the fish will be in about 25% with water from the tank. Remaining space is for air. Separate the fish by species, and do not put too many in one container. If it is an aggressive species separate each fish. Add a stress relief product, such as Stress Coat. A product that locks up ammonia is great, too.
1) A 5 gallon bucket could hold 1.5 gallons of water and up to 6” of fish. Put the lid on right away! Longer trip = less fish per bucket. For a foot long fish you might use a longer, lower storage box. Add an air pump. These are available from boating stores. They run off 12 volt batteries (car battery). Get the help of a friend to carry the box to avoid sloshing the fish around.
2) Plastic bags similar to fish store bags can hold 2-6” of fish. Larger fish = larger bags. There are even really big bags that Koi dealers will have for much larger fish. Caution: Loaches have spines that can poke holes in plastic bags. Tie off the corners so the fish will not dive into the corners and get trapped. Double bag any fish with spines. Put the bags in a Styrofoam box or ice chest for insulation. Breather bags are available from Kordon. Follow their directions (full bag, proper stocking levels, proper packing)
D) Plants in separate buckets, bags or plastic storage containers. Cooler is better than too warm. About 65* to 75* is optimum for most tropical plants. Plants with stiff leaves may not need to be underwater if the container is sealed and humid. Plants could be wrapped in damp newspaper or paper towel and packed in plastic bags in boxes.
E) Filter media with nitrifying bacteria should be kept in a humid place, but does not need to be underwater. Cool is better than too warm, but not freezing. About 60* - 75* is optimum, cooler is OK. If the trip is less than an hour you could keep the media in the filter, just drain the water. For longer trips a separate container will allow the bacteria more oxygen. For example, dump all the media into a bucket with a few inches of water and seal it.
F) Substrate also has a lot of nitrifying bacteria, and can be heavy. Buckets intended for heavy stuff would be best. Do not leave it in the tank.
G) Driftwood could be kept damp in a garbage bag. Large rocks might be best carried one at a time. You will probably loose the bacteria on the rocks, but this is not enough to worry about.
H) All other equipment: Pack it so it won’t break. Wrap the tank and stand for protection.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 2, MOVING
A) A short move, a few minutes to a couple of hours is best done in one day. If you can choose to travel in mild weather, this is best. If you run the air conditioner or heater make sure the plants, fish and bacteria are away from the vents, in a location with a stable temperature. You can get a 12 volt air pump to help the fish. Try a store that specializes in equipment for boaters, they use such pumps to keep bait and catch alive. This will run off your car battery. Drill a couple of holes in the lids of the buckets and put an air line into each bucket with a gentle bubbler in the water. Keep the fish in the dark, it is less stressful.
B) A longer move (overnight, stop at motel) must be planned more carefully. Keep the fish, plants and bacteria in moderate temperatures. Air pump is even more important than for a short move. If you are really worried bring some water for water changes, and re-bag the fish every other day.
C) Longer than this you might consider shipping the fish to a friend or to an aquarium service company or a store near the new location. Then you will have more time to get the aquarium set up, and the fish will have a shorter travel time.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 3, ARRIVAL
A) Get the fish, plants and bacteria into a location with stable temperature.
B) Prepare as much new water as you will need. (Minerals, dechlor, peat... whatever it takes to make the new water match the old water)
C) Set up the stand, and be sure it is level. Add tank, and equipment. (Do not plug in anything.)
D) Put substrate in the tank. Fill with water just below the substrate.
E) Add rocks, driftwood and plants. Mist the plants a lot.
F) Fill the tank but run the water in slowly onto a plate or sheet of plastic. Slow and gentle, it will seep into the substrate and not cloud the water.
G) Add Nitrospiros sp. of nitrifying bacteria, this replaces the nitrifying bacteria that may have died during the move. These are the actual species of nitrifying bacteria and can be found in bottles. As of the date I wrote this: Tetra Safe Start, Dr. Tim's One and Only and Microbe Lift's Nite Out II are the products with the correct species of bacteria. All other 'bacteria in a bottle' products are a waste of money. Wrong species of bacteria.
H) Turn on and test the equipment. Adjust as needed.
I) Net the fish out of the buckets. Or catch them in a container, if they are fish with spines. Drain the water from this container back into the bucket. The water the fish were moved with has a lot of ammonia and stress hormones. Do not add this to the tank. Loaches especially. These fish can produce something in their slime coat when they are stressed that kills other fish. You certainly do not want to add this to the new tank.
J) Lights off the rest of the day. Feed only if the fish seem settled in well.
FIRST WEEK
A) Test daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to be sure the bacteria have recovered. Water changes as needed.
B) Feed lightly for a few days if needed. If the fish and bacteria are well settled regular meals are fine.
C) Add plant fertilizer at ¼ the regular rate for a while. The plants need time to reestablish before they need or can use the full dose of fertilizer.
D) Monitor all the equipment to be sure it also has made the move OK. Heater and CO2 might need some adjustment.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
-
Sharkscott2
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Thu Mar 19, 2009 3:43 pm
- Location: Maryland - USA
I recently moved and took a 29 gallon, 55 gallon, 40 gallon, 75 gallon and 20 gallon with me on about a 40 minute drive.
One tank at a time of course
I used these to transport the water.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QB ... ss_product
5 gallons is a good weight for a average adult male to carry. I'd recommend keeping as much of the old water as you can.
And I placed the fish in half filled kettle corn buckets. They are white plastic buckets a bit smaller than a paint bucket but with a similar snap on top. My wife purchases them at a local concert venue and saves the buckets.
I prefer to keep my fish in the dark while I move them, I believe they go into sort of sleep like state which keeps them calmer.
My fish were moving from a GH of 100ppm to a GH of 40 ppm. I did small (10%) daily water changes for a week to acclimate them to the new water. I've since gone back to my 1/4 to 1/3 weekly water changes and haven't lost a fish in the move or since.
One tank at a time of course
I used these to transport the water.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QB ... ss_product
5 gallons is a good weight for a average adult male to carry. I'd recommend keeping as much of the old water as you can.
And I placed the fish in half filled kettle corn buckets. They are white plastic buckets a bit smaller than a paint bucket but with a similar snap on top. My wife purchases them at a local concert venue and saves the buckets.
I prefer to keep my fish in the dark while I move them, I believe they go into sort of sleep like state which keeps them calmer.
My fish were moving from a GH of 100ppm to a GH of 40 ppm. I did small (10%) daily water changes for a week to acclimate them to the new water. I've since gone back to my 1/4 to 1/3 weekly water changes and haven't lost a fish in the move or since.
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