Post
by Diana » Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:29 pm
Where in the BA are you thinking of? I have friends all over, and can get water reports from just about all the local water systems so you can start acclimating your fish to different mineral levels before the move.
There are a LOT of aquarium stores and aquarium services if you decide to ship your fish they can receive the shipment and handle them until you are ready to take them.
I can grow you a LOT of nitrifying bacteria to jump start the cycle in the equipment that you decide to move. Bacteria can be ready when you want it, it takes about 3 weeks to grow lots and lots of it. You could also buy bacteria in a bottle, most of the fish stores sell the real products (Nitrospiros sp).
If you look at Craig's List for San Francisco Bay Area and surrounding counties/cities (Monterey, Sacramento and many others) you might find a deal on some stuff that makes it not worth shipping, but on the whole, I would keep the stuff you are familiar with, especially if it is not a really common item.
If you are already thinking that it will involve a couple of trips back and forth for other reasons, then maybe...
Buy some tanks and whatever comes with them from Craig's List near here. Set them up with whatever filter, heater, light etc, but do not worry about cycling them unless someone is here to keep them cycled. Set them up near where the permanent tanks will go, but not in your way. Return to your old home and ship the fish to a company that will baby sit them until your next trip (Hopefully a short time). Then take down the tanks and everything, and ship everything. When you get back here cycle the temporary tanks, (24 hours) and go get your fish.
When your original tanks etc arrive set up the real tanks, filters and whatever else you have shipped, and transfer the fish.
Then sell whatever you do not want to keep.
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BEFORE THE MOVE
A) Water chemistry.
When fish are moved to water that is different from what they were used to this can cause problems. If there is any way you can find out ahead of time what the water is like at the new location you can start acclimating the fish before the move. Test GH, KH, TDS and pH.
If the GH or KH is up to 2 degrees higher at the new place, this is OK.
If the GH or KH is no more than 1 degree lower at the new place, this is OK.
If the TDS is within 15% higher or 10% lower at the new place this is OK.
If the pH is within .2 either way, this is OK. The pH could vary even more, and is not likely to be a problem if the other tests are well within the safe limits.
If any test is beyond these numbers, then alter the aquarium water a little bit in that direction with each water change for a couple of weeks before the move. If the water is really way off you might need to bring some water with you from the old location, or buy reverse osmosis water at the new place and add minerals to make it into a transition sort of mix.
B) Disturbing the debris.
Start cleaning the tank ahead of time. A few really deep, thorough gravel vacs in the couple of weeks preceding the move can really help. Clean the filter several days or a week before the move. Allow the beneficial bacteria several days recovery time before the move. Do not clean the filter on the same day you move.
C) Assemble what you need.
Buckets, towels, packing material, ice chest… Several suggestions follow.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 1, PACKING
A) Do not feed the fish in the morning. (Less waste to add to the water)
B) Unplug, turn off all equipment.
C) Fill the containers the fish will be in about 25% water from the tank. Remaining space is for air. Separate the fish by species, and do not put too many in one container. If it is an aggressive species separate each fish. Add a stress relief product, such as Stress Coat. A product that locks up ammonia is great, too.
1) A 5 gallon bucket could hold 1.5 gallons of water and up to 6” of fish. Put the lid on right away! Longer trip = less fish per bucket.
2) Plastic bags similar to fish store bags can hold 2-6” of fish (larger fish = larger bags) Tie off the corners so the fish will not dive into the corners and get trapped. Double bag any fish with spines. Put the bags in a Styrofoam box or ice chest for insulation. Breather bags are available from Kordon. Follow their directions (full bag, proper stocking levels, proper packing)
D) Plants in separate buckets, bags or plastic storage containers. Cooler is better than too warm. About 65* to 75* is optimum for most tropical plants. Plants with stiff leaves may not need to be underwater if the container is sealed and humid. Plants could be wrapped in damp newspaper or paper towel and packed in plastic bags in boxes.
E) Filter media with nitrifying bacteria should be kept in a humid place, but does not need to be underwater. Cool is better than too warm, but not freezing. About 60* - 75* is optimum, cooler is OK. If the trip is less than an hour you could keep the media in the filter, just drain the water. For longer trips a separate container will allow the bacteria more oxygen. For example, dump all the media into a bucket with a few inches of water and seal it.
F) Substrate also has a lot of nitrifying bacteria, and can be heavy. Buckets intended for heavy stuff would be best. Do not leave it in the tank.
G) Driftwood could be kept damp in a garbage bag. Large rocks might be best carried one at a time. You will probably loose the bacteria on the rocks, but this is not enough to worry about.
H) All other equipment: Pack it so it won’t break. Wrap the tank and stand for protection.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 2, MOVING
A) A short move, a few minutes to a couple of hours is best done in one day. If you can choose to travel in mild weather, this is best. If you run the air conditioner or heater make sure the plants, fish and bacteria are away from the vents, in a location with a stable temperature. You can get a 12 volt air pump to help the fish. Try a store that specializes in equipment for boaters, they use such pumps to keep bait and catch alive. This will run off your car battery. Drill a couple of holes in the lids of the buckets and put an air line into each bucket with a gentle bubbler in the water. Keep the fish in the dark, it is less stressful.
B) A longer move (overnight, stop at motel) must be planned more carefully. Keep the fish, plants and bacteria in moderate temperatures. Air pump is even more important than for a short move. If you are really worried bring some water for water changes, and re-bag the fish every other day.
C) Longer than this you might consider shipping the fish to a friend or to an aquarium service company or a store near the new location. Then you will have more time to get the aquarium set up, and the fish will have a shorter travel time.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 3, ARRIVAL
A) Get the fish, plants and bacteria into a location with stable temperature.
B) Prepare as much new water as you will need.
C) Set up the stand, and be sure it is level. Add tank, and equipment. (Do not plug in anything.)
D) Put substrate in the tank. Fill with water just below the substrate.
E) Add rocks, driftwood and plants. Mist the plants a lot.
F) Fill the tank but run the water in slowly onto a plate or sheet of plastic. Slow and gentle, it will seep into the substrate and not cloud the water.
G) Add Nitrospiros sp. of nitrifying bacteria, this replaces the nitrifying bacteria that may have died during the move.
H) Turn on and test the equipment. Adjust as needed.
I) Net the fish out of the buckets. The water the fish were moved with has a lot of ammonia and stress hormones. Do not add this to the tank.
J) Lights off the rest of the day. Feed only if the fish seem settled in well.
FIRST WEEK
A) Test daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to be sure the bacteria have recovered. Water changes as needed.
B) Feed lightly for a few days if needed. If the fish and bacteria are well settled regular meals are fine.
C) Add plant fertilizer at ¼ the regular rate for a while. The plants need time to reestablish before they need or can use the full dose of fertilizer.
D) Monitor all the equipment to be sure it also has made the move OK. Heater and CO2 might need some adjustment.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
?
,,,shipping or not at all is what I'm thinking...
Mine is just under 200ppm tap last I checked. I found a couple nice houses, 1 with a fantasy kitchen, whoo hoo! Others with fab views, I'm getting excited! California here I come! ( I think...) I feel so relieved about my fish, thanks everyone, especially you Diana, your help has been awesome! Hubby's Co has sweetened the pot too, sounds like this could be a GO!