Sorry I have not been around as much to respond; I just got all four of my wisdom teeth removed and have been somewhat out of commission.
I would second what Diana says about the carbon. I read your post and your tank change routine was impeccable. No problems there. But I have heard of instances where Loaches, especially Clowns, are "allergic" to certain types of carbon. This might cause some of the mottling you are seeing on them.
Between that and just the move to new quarters might have been hard on them. Some of yours have been so long-lived they might have been very used to their old tank, even though the new one will be better long-term. You might compare it to an elderly couple who have lived in the same house since their children were born and have had to sell.
Pardon the personification, but I truly believe fish have a lot more intelligence than people give them credit for. You are giving them a good home. Your tank looks lovely!
I'm going to change the carbon immediately. I had so much going on this afternoon I completely forgot to stop at the pet store to get some. I need to put new carbon in tomorrow to remove the MarOxy and do another water change.
It is ironic that I got this nice big tank FOR the clowns and they aren't appreciating it so much. It's times like these when we wish we could communicate with them better to let them know our intentions are all good. They were spooked when I tried to net them to put them into buckets during the move. I haven't had to net them in 8 years (when we moved into our current house) so they didn't know what was going on. Eventually they'll settle in. I'm planning on adding another 3 or 4 clowns to keep them company, but I will definitely use a QT for the first few weeks before introducing them to the tank.
Thanks for the tank compliment too! I take a lot of pride in my tank and I am always trying to think of ways to improve. I will eventually work on getting some live plants in there, but every time I try they end up dying.
Just rinse the carbon well before using it and it should be fine.
Can anyone show me pics of what a clown looks like when they have excess slime coat? I saw one of my smaller clowns today, who is looking a little on the thin side, and he has some stuff coming of the back of him on the section that looks "marbled". It almost looks like a fungus, but yet it looks like it could be bacterial, so I am trying to decide if I change water and carbon and wait a few days or go ahead and treat the entire tank with both Maracyn and Maracyn II. I'll try to submit a picture if he'll stop running from me.
Another question - what brand of carbon do you use/trust?
I do not use activated carbon, except in case of emergency. At that point I use whatever I have on hand. This is AC that I got when I bought a new filter. I have bought several filters over the years, and less than once a year use any AC at all. If I ever run out of carbon, I would have to go shopping around. If I ever have to buy it I would want my money to go as far as possible, and get the best AC for aquarium use.
Happy fish keeping!
This is the whole tank - I was doing a water change so everyone was out and about!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49654217@N ... 3957698990
Here's the clown I'm most worried about - you can't see it in the picture but he has some spots in the last black stripe near the tail. I'm hoping it's excess slime. I am keeping a close eye on him.
And here are my four clowns huddled together waiting for me to finish cleaning out their favorite hiding spot.
hmmm, I tried to post them as pics, but it's not working, so I had to post links.
Dehydration and loss of color are just a few of the side effects of salt and medication usage.
Osmoregulation is when the fish adapts to the mineral levels of the water. When minerals levels are increased (like when you add salt), the fish will adapt by losing water from it's body. This will make the fish look dehydrated.
IMO, the salt treatment should be close to ending by now if it started 2-3 weeks ago. To remove the salt, I'd recommend doing daily 20% water changes for 2 weeks without adding anymore salt to the water. Then you can just do twice weekly 20% water changes there after.
You really need to let the fish settle in. Only time and good water quality is going to help them with any cosmetic or coloration problems. So no more medications.
Recently I have been pulling back on the salt treatment by making 20 to 30% water changes without adding salt in case the salt was making it harder for them to recover. I will stop putting salt in and keep the water clean and see how it goes.
Thanks again, your help is invaluable.
Now I have a Threadfin Rainbow that looks very skinny, but I'm not sure if there's really anything "wrong" with him. A different threadfin Rainbow has a spot on it's anal fin- it's dark gray in color, and this fish also has a slightly bent spine, which could be from a bacterial infection, or possibly TB (hopefully not). This one has had a bent spine for more than a month now. The spot is new.
My QT tank is occupied by my new pleco and three new clown loaches. I don't want to treat the whole tank unless it's necessary to guard the other fish from whatever this fish has. What should I do?
It sounds like the Rainbowfish are wasting away. IMO, they should be Quarantined, or euthanized.
New fish add risk of cross contamination, so you'll need to be extra careful. You'll need to keep them quarantined them for at least a few months. I would suggest prophylactic treatments for the most common parasites while they are in quarantine.
As for the rainbows, I may just pull them and put them into an old 1.5 gallon tank we have in storage. This will get them out of the main tank and give me time to figure out what to do with them. The one with the bent spine concerns me, because of TB, but as you mentioned earlier, it could be from a bacterial infection (hopefully).
I'll look into a TDS meter, but first I'll check with my LPS to see if they can check the levels.
A single TDS reading from a LPS isn't going to help at all. You'd need to have a TDS meter 1st hand so you could check the source water and aquarium water frequently. They only cost about $10 -20 on ebay. The readings can give you better knowledge of the water chemistry and can help monitor water quality.
I'm still investigating a UV sterilizer, but I'm a little confused on the brands, and they are very expensive!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests