Tank setup update
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:34 am
This is just a progress update on getting my tank set up. I am finally a little further along than just watching sand dunes form in the tank as I experimented with different current systems.
My new R.O. filter is working well (rated at 75 gpd- I get 62gpd since my water pressure is just 50 psi). I ran a water line from the R.O. unit, which is under my kitchen sink, through the wall to the garage and then through the wall into the living room where the tanks are. It feeds into the storage tank below which has an air bubbler, a heater, and a submersible pump (Eheim 1262).
The Eheim pump in the storage tank goes to the back of the tank.
I also used someone's advise and got a light string (18 ft) from Home Depot to use for moon lights at night. They work pretty well if you line up the lights so that they all face downward.
The R.O. water line also goes to a small sink (about 6.5 inches diameter) that I made out of a mixing bowl my wife was willing to give up. The sink is very handy for rinsing test tubes after doing water tests.
The drain for the sink goes to the following drain that I installed last weekend (it is normally completely out of view behind the sofa).
The drain has the opening at the top for doing water changes.
After all the experimenting that I did with currents, I have arrived at a solution that I am happy with. I bought two Tunze Turbelle® nanostream 6045's. They are expensive at $96 apiece, but I think they work really well. The idea is that I wanted to go for a horizontal circular current. One 6045 is mounted by the magnet on the back of the tank on the left side, but aimed along the back of the tank. The other 6045 is on the right side of the tank in the middle of the side, but aimed across the front. With each one pushing 1189 gph (4500 l/h) they create a pretty strong current all the way around. By stirring up the sand (before I had fish in the tank) I could see just how it flowed. The Tunze pumps are also a lot quieter than my AC 802's were. Also, as Emma has pointed out, some of the Tunze pumps could be a threat to small fish. That, and the noise issue, is why I went with these smaller pumps that have 1/3 the flow rate that Emma's pump has. I think that these smaller pumps are fine for any fish that won't fit through the grating since the flow is not strong enough to hold a fish onto the grating. They would be a problem for fry so probably not good for a hillstream tank.
6045 on the back left.
6045 on the right side.
Finally, here is the 75g tank.
The white spot in the middle of the left piece of driftwood is not a hole, but hot melt glue that I used to fill all holes. I hope that algae will soon cover it so it won't show.
I also installed a UV filter. I have been doing 10% water changes every day for a week now. I use an AC 802 power head that I just drop into the tank and pump the water out to the drain (it takes 2 minutes). Then I just hit a switch that pumps the R.O. water into the tank (it takes 1 minute). I could automate this, but since it is so fast, I don't think I will. I would also rather be there to monitor it. I do think that I will put a float switch on the tank to shut off the input pump from the storage tank, in case I get interrupted don't get it turned off in time.
I have 4 Serpae Tetras in the tank now. 6 days ago I bought 6 Devario aequipinnatus (giant danios) that I had watched at the LFS for several weeks. They are thriving in the quarantine tank, starting to color up, and look very good. They are getting a levasimole treatment. I recommend ChefKeith's levamisole calculator at http://www.geocities.com/chefkeithallen/Levamisole.html
I used it to figure out that a 20 oz plastic soda bottle of water with 3/4 tsp of levamisole powder is a good mix that then requires 1 tablespoon of this liquid mix for every 10 gallons of tank water in order to get 2 ppm. In another week or so, if they are still looking good, I will move them to the 75g tank and then I can think about getting loaches.
My new R.O. filter is working well (rated at 75 gpd- I get 62gpd since my water pressure is just 50 psi). I ran a water line from the R.O. unit, which is under my kitchen sink, through the wall to the garage and then through the wall into the living room where the tanks are. It feeds into the storage tank below which has an air bubbler, a heater, and a submersible pump (Eheim 1262).
The Eheim pump in the storage tank goes to the back of the tank.
I also used someone's advise and got a light string (18 ft) from Home Depot to use for moon lights at night. They work pretty well if you line up the lights so that they all face downward.
The R.O. water line also goes to a small sink (about 6.5 inches diameter) that I made out of a mixing bowl my wife was willing to give up. The sink is very handy for rinsing test tubes after doing water tests.
The drain for the sink goes to the following drain that I installed last weekend (it is normally completely out of view behind the sofa).
The drain has the opening at the top for doing water changes.
After all the experimenting that I did with currents, I have arrived at a solution that I am happy with. I bought two Tunze Turbelle® nanostream 6045's. They are expensive at $96 apiece, but I think they work really well. The idea is that I wanted to go for a horizontal circular current. One 6045 is mounted by the magnet on the back of the tank on the left side, but aimed along the back of the tank. The other 6045 is on the right side of the tank in the middle of the side, but aimed across the front. With each one pushing 1189 gph (4500 l/h) they create a pretty strong current all the way around. By stirring up the sand (before I had fish in the tank) I could see just how it flowed. The Tunze pumps are also a lot quieter than my AC 802's were. Also, as Emma has pointed out, some of the Tunze pumps could be a threat to small fish. That, and the noise issue, is why I went with these smaller pumps that have 1/3 the flow rate that Emma's pump has. I think that these smaller pumps are fine for any fish that won't fit through the grating since the flow is not strong enough to hold a fish onto the grating. They would be a problem for fry so probably not good for a hillstream tank.
6045 on the back left.
6045 on the right side.
Finally, here is the 75g tank.
The white spot in the middle of the left piece of driftwood is not a hole, but hot melt glue that I used to fill all holes. I hope that algae will soon cover it so it won't show.
I also installed a UV filter. I have been doing 10% water changes every day for a week now. I use an AC 802 power head that I just drop into the tank and pump the water out to the drain (it takes 2 minutes). Then I just hit a switch that pumps the R.O. water into the tank (it takes 1 minute). I could automate this, but since it is so fast, I don't think I will. I would also rather be there to monitor it. I do think that I will put a float switch on the tank to shut off the input pump from the storage tank, in case I get interrupted don't get it turned off in time.
I have 4 Serpae Tetras in the tank now. 6 days ago I bought 6 Devario aequipinnatus (giant danios) that I had watched at the LFS for several weeks. They are thriving in the quarantine tank, starting to color up, and look very good. They are getting a levasimole treatment. I recommend ChefKeith's levamisole calculator at http://www.geocities.com/chefkeithallen/Levamisole.html
I used it to figure out that a 20 oz plastic soda bottle of water with 3/4 tsp of levamisole powder is a good mix that then requires 1 tablespoon of this liquid mix for every 10 gallons of tank water in order to get 2 ppm. In another week or so, if they are still looking good, I will move them to the 75g tank and then I can think about getting loaches.