Loaches Online Forum

the water test kit we have doesnt do amonnia. so i have no idea what the amonnia. it tests the :
nitrate
nitrite
hardness
alkalinity
pH

other than that i cant do any more for her for tonight

kmaemac wrote:the water test kit we have doesnt do amonnia. so i have no idea what the amonnia. it tests the :
nitrate
nitrite
hardness
alkalinity
pH
other than that i cant do any more for her for tonight

Let us know what the nitrite, nitrate and pH are at least for both tanks. Follow the instructions carefully. The next time you go to the Petstore, check the Ammonia in both tanks.

I keep a Fish Tank Log for all ten of my tanks, where I write down when I change the water, how much, the test results for my tanks, the temperature, when I lose fish, add fish, when fish go into quarantine and when they get treatment and with what.

Good luck. Tanja.

last night the nitrates and nitrites were 0, the pH was between 7.2-7.8

the total hardness was between 75-150, total alkalinity was between120-180

that is for the sick dojos tank. the 2.5 gal


the the 20 gal tanks nitrates were between 0-20, the nitrites was 0, the pH was between 7.2-7.8.

the total hardness was between 75-150, thetotal alkalinity was between180-300

Hi kmaemac,

Is oro still with you? Are you still treating for ick? Are you treating both tanks with the Jungle buddies ick clear and fungus clear? Do you still see any spots?

If the redness around the edge of the patch is gone, that's a good thing. Dead skin/flesh will look white. Is it still sloughing off? Is it spreading? Is ono still in the cracked little tank or did you put him/her back in the main tank?

For cleaning your fish tanks a gravel vacuum is a necessary tool. You can get one at any fish store or you can use airline tubing. You start a syphon with one end in the fish tank and the other end going into a bucket, or a sink if your tank is close to one. It's a good idea to have a dedicated fish bucket that has never been used for any kind of cleaning to use to refill your tanks after water changes.

Right now, if the ick is gone and you've not seen spots for several days you can stop the treatment. Don't stop treating until all the spots have been gone for at least 3-5 days depending on your temperature. At lower temperatures you should wait longer. Did you mention what temp your tank is at?

I don't think it is HS as Emma mentioned, though it could have been. The reason why is that your fish had this for 4 days. HS can kill within hours and it is very contagious. Your other fish/frog are still fine?

The best thing you can do for now is monitor the water quality of your tank and keep it very clean. Have you read anything on the Nitrogen Cycle?

Your small tank will go through it too, as will any tank newly set up. You need to be aware of it to watch out for rising ammonia and nitrite/nitrate levels.

It sounds like your fish is suffering from ammonia burn that developed into an infection. I wouldn't start with antibiotics until you're finished with the fungus and ick clear.

The most important thing is to keep the water clean via water changes.
DO NOT clean the filter in anything but old tank water (which is why you use a syphon into a bucket to catch the water). In a brand new tank, you should never clean the filter since you need the beneficial bacteria to build up to convert the ammonia and nitrite into the less toxic nitrAte. The link I posted will tell you all about it.

For now, change about one to two inches of water from the tank every day and add back in clean water that has been dechlorinated using a product called Prime or any other one which detoxifies both chlorine and chloramine. Adding straight tap water will cause serious problems for your fish if chlorine is present.

Feed very lightly, just enough for your fish to be able to finish in 5 minutes. If there is any food left over, vacuum it out of the tank. A good time to do your water changes is AFTER you feed them.

Hope ono is still with you. Sorry I got back to you so late.

oro is still with us your 2nd and 3rd ? are no. yes the redness is starting to go away no it isnt sloughing, no it isnt spreading and yes she is still in the 2 gal tank shes to the point were she moves as we watch her before she would just sit there and watch us. we already have our own vacuum. tanja said we needednto get a turkey baster to pick up the food that she doesnt eat i need to go to walmart to get the TB and ammonia test kit.we have thetank temp. around 76-78 to shorten the lifespan of thr ick my mom told me that so talk to you later ill answer the rest of ur ?s later.

when she breathes she kinda "gulps", and it is sorta labored, she is moving around alot more and now the dead skin is starting to slough off again her whiskers droop but the other dojos whiskers dont. she still wont eat anything. the ammonia test kit at walmart was $10 so we just got some ammonia nuetralizer by jungle. now her "rash" looks like its getting bigger. right now the algae eater is keeping the other dojo company but he still freaks out. do you think i should get him another dojo to play with. just out of curiosity how many clown loaches could i put in a 10 gal.

The answer to your last question is ZERO.

oro died about 3 days ago. we got the ammonia test kit. But it was too late to do anything.
we got 2 long-finned blue danios, a tuxedo female guppy, and a yellow leopard male guppy since she died. the danios and leopard are being treated for ick becuase one danio got ick.