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Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 3:08 pm
by Jamie
andyroo wrote:JPrint all that's been said here, bag up everybody in the 29 and and go back to the shop demanding to speak to the manger in your best lawyer's voice.
Do it today, (Saturday) as the shop will be packed. Show manager all the LOL input plus whatever else you can get from the net, waiving the papers in the air "court room" dramatically and demand full-value refund or +20% store credit as you were "actively, mercenarily and irresponsibly sold on misinformation."
Smiles. I'd love to, if just for the amusement factor. Two problems, however: I'm studying for finals (so no venturing out into civilization for me today), and I'd like to keep my fish. I'm attached to them.

Any alternative advice for keeping what I have now?
I don't mind purchasing a larger tank (my bank account might, but I don't subscribe to the idea of abandoning a project if it becomes challenging). I've made a few mistakes in choosing my fish based on the size of the tank I have, but now that the fish have been chosen, I'd like to put them in an environment where they will really flourish.
andyroo wrote:if the shop is saying the rest of the plecos are still fine it might not be a bad idea to send/post photos of a) the pleco's white spots and b) your clamp-fin clowns for a final ID.
I'll try, but I'm not the most technologically savvy.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 3:52 pm
by starsplitter7
Pictures are easy. Upload them to free photobucket.com, then copy and paste the img code to your post. Post everything from img to img (including the imgs). It will make sense when you see it on photobucket. Do a preview and check to make sure the pictures are there.

The rubbing/flashing is the fish trying to remove an irritant generally seen with Ick and sometimes with higher nitrates (and other stuff).

I think I have been told previously that if you start one medication, finish the cycle with that medicine, before you move to another. However, you can add a medicine to work with your Ick medicine to control infection. I would buy a same brand antibiotic, but someone with more experience will probably chime in on this for compatibility. I have recently started stocking everything I can get, so I have it if I need it.

I am a relative beginner (4 years), so I have done the same as you have, and I am repeating the advice I was given here.

I think in a previous post someone suggested a 75 gallon tank, although short term, you might be able to do a 55 gallon while you Clowns grow a bit more, if your short on funds. craigslist.com often has used tanks at great prices.

Eventually you can move the tetras and platys to your clowns (check temp and ph parameters to make sure I am right about this), use your ten as quarantine and keep the Cichilds in the 29, until you get a bigger tank for them. How big are they now? Sounds like they get to 7" -- much too big for a 29 gallon, and it sounds like they are very aggressive even towards females. You may need to give one away or get two tanks.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/s_fryeri.php

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 4:38 pm
by Jamie
I have another question for everybody. Is Coppersafe effective and safe for use?

I'll be able to pick up some medicine tonight and am planning to pick up the Rid-Ich, but I want to avoid multiple trips, if possible. I am looking for something that will also cure other parasites, as well as Ich. I'm worried that I may have misdiagnosed the Ich. For example, I've read that gill flukes and Velvet can have similar symptoms. For example, gill flukes can also cause the flashing and rapid breathing, and Velvet can cause a dusting of white flecks. Coppersafe claims to be able to cure them all. Rid-Ich claims to be able to cure Ich and Velvet.

For now, my cichlids are showing no symptoms of disease or stress. My pleco's white spots seem to have diminished. Other than the spots, he's seems quite calm. The loaches, however, are still rapidly swimming vertically, noses at the surface, breathing rapidly, fins clamped.

I'm charging the batteries on my digital camera, and will try to post some pics later.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 5:00 pm
by starsplitter7
I just picked up Coppersafe, so I will be happy to hear what people say. I am always nervous with loaches.

Mardel brand has a good reputation. I picked up Coppersafe and Maracide for parasites and Maracyn I and Maracyn II for antibiotics. I just had two fish treated with Maracyn I and II for fin rot and both are doing great! One fish I had just bought and was in quarantine when I saw a sore on his tail. The second lost a fight at night -- no major injuries, just torn fins. I have had him a couple years, so I am very happy he is doing well.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 7:18 pm
by chefkeith
I won't put coppersafe in my main tanks. In a quarantine tank it might be OK.

It can be very dangerous stuff.
If it's mixed with sulfa type antibiotics it will turn toxic.
UV light can turn it toxic also.
Overdosing can burn loaches sensitive skin.

It's nearly impossible to get out of substrates.
It will kill about everything else, like snails, shrimp, and some plants which is the big reason why I won't use it in my main tanks. Snails, shrimp and plants are a part of my ecosystem.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 8:11 pm
by starsplitter7
Chefkeith, what would you recommend? :) I knew someone with more experience would come along again.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 9:01 pm
by chefkeith
Jungle Parasite Clear "tank buddies" is my favorite anti-parasite medication because it's easy to use. It's good for about everything, such as ich, velvet, flukes, internal parasites, and bacterial problems. You don't want to use it if you have shrimp in your tanks though.

If it was me, I'd use salt because it's safe for fish, snails, shrimp, and most plants. Kosher salt or canning salt. It will wipe out ich, velvet, and flukes.

2 teaspoons of salt per gallon of water.

I don't fully recommend salt because it can cause osmolarity problems if it's added or removed too quickly. Also, you should let the fish fully recover in the salt bath before attempting to remove it, which could take about 2-3 weeks. I also don't recommend it because the sticky says not to use salt and I don't want to start any arguements.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 9:13 pm
by chefkeith
btw, Jungle Parasite Clear has praziquantel in it, that's if you can't find Prazipro.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 9:15 pm
by starsplitter7
I have never had luck with Jungle. Do you like the antiparasitic? Do you use full or half dose with loaches?

Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 9:38 pm
by chefkeith
Many meds don't work. IME, Full spectrum meds usually work best. Jungle Parasite Clear has a good track record, unlike some of the other Jungle products.

Last time I used Jungle Parasite Clear was at full dosage. It's safe for loaches as far as I know.

Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 5:51 pm
by newshound
do a 50% water change (add the new water slowly over a few hours).
I think a large (but slow) water change is a good idea at least once a month.
quit feeding your fish for the next couple of days and then start feeding lightly.

Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 8:29 pm
by Diana
http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/species ... ame=fryeri

Here is a little more info on the Cichlids.

A 55 for the Clowns would be great for a year or so, see how fast they grow, and you could add some other fish to this tank. The Pleco might be OK in here for a while, but they grow pretty fast. Even if you like the others, I would get rid of this guy. Get a Bristlenose for algae.